9.18.2017

A month in Iran: reportage 9: Karkas easy climbing, a tea in the desert and at night in a Persian cemetery

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Easy climbing 
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Atop, Karkas mountains in the background
My foot here, my hand there... It isn't a rock but you can't say it's a mountain. It's a piece of the rocky desert of Natanz, a lower extention of Karkas, and I'm climbing it with a childish enthusiasm. It's very hot but there is a pleasant wind atop! I can see the valley, the oasis, and the black summit so close... 
My friends are sipping their chai in the shadow of the trees, sharing shiriny and watermelon with a local family and waiting for lunch. 
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The oasis
A goat has been killed, its blood spilled from the knife cut, and now it's hanging from a tree, accurately butched. I think I'd like to come back in winter and tourskiing on these slopes, I think the summit shouldn't be so far and in few hours I could reach it even now... 
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In the oasis: women cleaning sabzy
Instead I have to descend. Chai, shiriny and watermelon for me too, and pictures with the local family, very curious and friendly. The women are busy cleaning sabzy (vegetables), the men are smoking, children are playing with a borken tv. Taking off my boots it's one of the pleasure of life... but in the early morning I'm eager to wear them and to go.
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A man smoking
It's our last day in Tar. We go visiting Masoud's family orchard, small enclosed gardens full of fruits, irrigated by flooding with a complex system of drains and sluices. The water follows the terrain natural inclination and is conducted to the main canal from where it's distributed once a week to each orchade. 
We go home carrying heavy baskets. 
The night is aproaching, it's supposed to be starred and stars should be falling. The cemetery of Tar is dark enough. The tombs, scattered at random, emerge like indistinct white patches. 
There is a writing on them: a poem or the dead's eulogy. Sometimes there is the dead's lithography, but only for men. Masoud tells funny stories of grim jokes, Najmeh stands in silence by her mother's grave: "She was from Tehran but she asked to be buried here beside her husband, who was from Tar." 
The village from here looks abandoned, all dark, in ruins. "A falling star!" The only one we'll see, but we remain.   


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Children playing with abroken tv
TO BE CONTINUED

Have also a look to Part 1Part 2,  Part 3Part 4 Part 5Part 6Part 7 and Part 8


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Burching the gaot
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Sharing chai and shiriny
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Enclosed gardens
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In the orchard
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In Tar cemetery at night

9.15.2017

A month in Iran: reportage 8: The castle of Targhrood

Image may contain: people sitting"Who asks...?" the Afghan guy hands out his telephone standing beside his barrow on the gate of the ancient castle of Targhrood.  Abandoned and almost ruined, the huge fortress overlooks the village. "Stop! men at work! Entrance forbiden!" Masoud is talking to the site manager: "Mersi mersi... Khoda hafez! He knows your cousin..." he tells his wife "He says kind regards, please you are welcome." The guy steps aside and we get in. What a privilege! the site is going to be open to the public in some years but now we can visit it all, without restrictions.
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We have no guide and I can't find information in English about this place. We just look at it in amazement and take a lot of pictures. But what strikes me the most are the workers, the two Afghan guys who are restoring the castle. Young, talking farsi with a strong accent, they prepare some chai sqatted beside the fire. Decades of war have forced milions of Afghan to leave their country and many have been welcome in Iran as refugees. They are employed in the less paid works and in Tehran it's common to see Afghan children begging in the traffic. It's a neverending drama. Even the hospitable Iranian society failed to give them a better future.

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The workers are relatively well dressed, they have work gloves and helmets, probably they sleep here, on the floor, in the restored part of the castle. They make bricks mixing earth and grass, cook them in the sun and place them one by one to rebuild the damaged walls.  Their salary is no doubt low, still it's probably good compared to what they can get in Afghanistan... I think of my Nepali friends working abroad, unhappy, homesick but feeling lucky if they can send something to their families. It's a hard life. Still their eyes kept something childish, an intact beauty. Indeed... the most beautiful eyes I have seen in Iran...

Image may contain: shoesThe view from the top of the castle is monotonous and a little disappointing. A flat desert corrugated at the horizon like an untidy carpet. Let's go home, preparing a tasty kebab... The Afghan guy keep looking at us while we descent to the car, a realtively big banknote in his hand. 
Image may contain: one or more people and outdoorIn Tar the heat is dry and almost always windy during the day. At night the temperature is definitely lower, almost cold. On the way home we raid the villages on search of a one kilos chicken for tonight chicken kebab. Masoud explains that it must be one kilos, a small tender chicken. It's the sunset, and passing by a small mosque, in its faint greenish light, I hear the adan...
No automatic alt text available.Shish kebab secret, now I know, it's a dangerous one: Masoud has cut the chiken meat in small pieces, pierced them by big steel skewers and is now greasing them with butter! On the terrace the barbecue is ready. Meanwhile Najmeh is cooking the polo (rise). But the most wanted part of the dinner is the piece of bread Masoud used to take the meat out from the skewers! 

TO BE CONTINUED

Have also a look to Part 1Part 2,  Part 3Part 4 Part 5Part 6 and Part 7
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9.14.2017

A month in Iran: reportage 7: The disapearing town of Tar

Image may contain: sky and outdoorSix in the small car on the country roads of Natanz, heavy transpiration under modest dressig and scarves. Not a tree, not a stream. The desert schorching heat. Masoud stops in the nothing and we get off with our pik-nik stuff. He stares in silence: "I can't believe." he finally says "Here, it was all green". The immense emptyness swallows his words. We have no reply, we see this place for the first time in our lives and it is a wide stretch of rocky desert. 
In silence we walk on the dusty path, and getting close we notice that it climbs among terracings and dry stone walls. "Here, it all was gardens, orchades, fields..." Masoud repeats in sad amazement "I haven't been here in ten years... maybe fifteen... Nothing is left. It it is all dust." His mother is quietly crying. 
Image may contain: mountain, sky, outdoor and natureA big walnut tree stands out, bold and green. When we reach it I see that it's growing in a little stream, almost invisble but drawing a green line of bushes and smaller trees. Atop there is a building, a traditional house of pressed earth bricks. "My grandmother used to live there. Imagine! she had to walk all this way to Tar and to climb all the hill to go back, everyday... But at that time it was very beautiful here. We used to come at dawn to help the adults, we used to play here, to fill our pockets in secret with walnuts and other fruits... And coming back to Tar at the sunset the workers used to have their baskets full!"
Image may contain: mountain, sky, cloud, nature and outdoorOur pik-nik stuff look unreal in the desolation of this place. But up we go. We stop by the stream, in the shadow of some trees, we sit on the ruins of a wall and we share a watermelon, looking down to the valley.
Image may contain: 3 people, people smiling, tree, outdoor and natureWhat happened here? what happened in Tar, where ancient buildings are fading, wasted and not restored, in ruins or demolished? The ancient mosque has got a new neon sign, but it's empty. The ancient public bath is closed and the new one, bigger and modern, at the edge of the village, is abandoned. New houses have been built in a modern opulent style. 
Image may contain: outdoor and nature"Tar used to be the richest town in the area" Masoud explains "My gradfather, Najmeh grandfather..." he point to his wife and my best friend "a few families from Tar were very rich, they used to own all the land. They sent their sons and daughter to Tehran to complete their studies and eventually they moved to the Capital city. I was born there. Najmeh too. We used to come here in summer, after the school finished. 

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Ancient buildings in Tar
People from Tar were very rich and people from other villages used to come to work for them. In Teheran they started a new bussiness, for exemple Najmeh's father became a builder, mine opened several shops of cars components... They didn't care anymore about their fields and orchades, their hired workers became the effective owners, time and weather wasted their traditional houses and they were happy to build new ones, with all the conforts they had got used in Tehran."

He takes a long breath. "Nowadays the small villages that used to be poor are rich, there people remained, kept taking care of the land... and Tar is disapearing."

TO BE CONTINUED

Have also a look to Part 1Part 2,  Part 3Part 4 Part 5 and Part 6
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The door of an ancient house: different knocker for men and women, to let know who's coming.
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The interior of a modern house in Tar: all the conforts!

9.12.2017

A month in Iran: reportage 6: Natanz "A famous Sufi story tells that different religions are like fingers of the same hand..."

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Natanz: the shrine of Abd as-Samad
"They say it's a mosque... but it isn't, not exactly... The authorities don't like this..." My friend assumed  a cospiratorial tone. Indeed this is a mosque, but also the place where a Sufi saint used to leave and to teach in the unconventional way proper to the mystics of Islam. 
Image may contain: indoorKnown as the shrine of Abd as-Samad, the present complex date from 1304 ac, but its original structure was built in 1299 ac, after the death of the saint. It's small, geometrical, sharp. The cupola isn't round but esagonal, with a specific remind to numerology and spiritual symbolism, and it's blue like Isfahan maiolics against the dusty desert yellow of the desolate landscape.
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The symbol of the Imam Ali: Zulfiqar , the legendary sword.  
The mosque is the most remarcable building in Natanz and it attracts a small number of adventurous tourists. In front of the decorated door there is a pluricentenary tree and two young men in traditional clothing seem in the act of worshipping it, their hands joined and risen at the level of their faces as if they were reading an invisible book. The Book indeed, the Mother of the Book, the originary Qur'an... Why not? a living venerable vegetal qibla... The direction is right because a mosque door is always oriented toward the holy Makkah. A Christian churche absis should be oriented toward Jerusalem, because in the originary ritual the priest used to stand in front of the devotees leading their prayers, just like the imam in a mosque. In the first times of Islam Muslims too used to pray toward Jerusalem. A famous Sufi story tells that different religions are like fingers of the same hand. 
Image may contain: one or more peopleThere is only one minaret, decorated in tiles, slender and slim. It's a symbol of the male, like a lingam, while the cupola represents the female, like a yoni. Usually the mosque are squared while the cupola is round because the square represents the 'earth' (material world) while the sphere represents the 'heaven' (spiritual world). Inside a mosque it isn't strange to find a cross, as it's the symbol of the union of the vertical line (from material to spiritual) and the horizontal line (from many to one). By the way in Nepal people do the sign of the cross when they pass by a stupa or a chorten or an holy place in general, included the tombs of their ancestors, a stream, a tree...
The shrine ceiling isn't flat but moved in lights and shadows by infinite niches, empty and filled at the same time, with the result that the material seems to dissolve in the concept, in the line, in the shape. So few remains of the ancient decoration! still here it's possible to recognise the same style of the more complex mosques of Isfahan or Shiraz. On a wall I see painted in red the symbol of the Imam AliZulfiqar , the legendary sword. On the bare floor, facing a blind qibla robbed of all its splendour, there is a worn carpet, and I get the chance to pray in this incredible place. Just two rakats, just to connect, as I did in the Annapurna base camp. 
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An ancient school (madrasa)
Next to the shrine there are a museum and some maiolics shops. In the museum a man has replicated a small ancient Natanz in every dettails recycling waste and spare materials. Here you can see the bazar with many different traditional jobs, the houses, the school... And I'm especially amused seeing the pain inflicted to the student who didn't learn his lesson! Fortunately this is definitely over in Iran and in a large part of the world. Not everywhere. But really... Imam Ali used to say: "Oh my god, I don't worship you for fear of your hell nor for desire of you heaven. I worship you because you are worth to be worshipped." I think the same about knowledge: you must love it for itself!
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In the maiolics shop
The maiolics shops are not just shops but also a kind of living museum where we are showed the traditional technic of realisation of these beautiful vases. The owen is like a room with a small door with shelves allowing to cook even fifty vases at the same time! but nowadays vases are cooked in electric owens, more pratical and healtier. The splendid colours are still prepared in the traditional way, grinding and mixing natural materials, mineral or vegetal. Vases get their shape by skilled hands on a manual or electric lathe, then they are engraved and painted, sometimes according to models or requests but very often on the spot according to the creativity of the master.
The sunset is painting the cupola orange and black. It's time to drive to Tar, the disapearing village where we are going to spend two more days...

TO BE CONTINUED

Have also a look to Part 1, Part 2,  Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5

Procycling - La Vuelta: Alberto Contador ends career with solo victory on the Angliru: "It's a full stop at the end of a career in which I have done everything I wanted"

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photo Luis Angel Gomez/BettiniPhoto©2017
Alberto Contador:
"The truth is it has been a very, very special day. I think it’s very difficult to say good bye in a better way than this, in this place, in this event. In the end, it's a full stop at the end of a career in which I have done everything I wanted. I think it's been a beautiful Vuelta even though I am not on the podium. But perhaps if I had been in contention for the overall podium I would have ridden in a different way, more conservative, and instead I have ridden the race I have ridden - I look at the photos, and almost every day there are pictures of me alone because I have been on the attack.
I knew it was going to be a very special day, the road full of people and everyone watching the stage, and I set the goal for myself of winning on the Angliru. This morning I wanted to win, and when I crossed the line, I thought to myself: goal completed. In the end, we couldn't take the podium, but this is not what's important. What's important is to take the victory of the stage and finish with this result for the rest of my life.
I spoke with teammates ahead yesterday and said that tomorrow could be one day for the history. They gave 100% to control the first part of the race. All the riders helped me, and especially Pantano for the descent of the Cordal. We started the Angliru with some seconds to the rivals, and then I knew it was my time and I needed to give the maximum until the top and try to win. 
Today's attack was different because it was an attack on the descent. It's unusual in the history of cycling for this on a dangerous descent, but Jarlinson attacked, and I went with him.
I have been able to enjoy the affection of all the people who say thank you to me. It's been a remarkable month, unforgettable. I think in the future it'll be remembered that in my last day of competition, I finished it with a win."

9.11.2017

A month in Iran: reportage 5: "Doust-e man dar Natanz ast"

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Bus terminal in Tehran
"Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan!", "Tabriz! Tabriz! Tabriz! Tabriz! Tabriz! Tabriz!", "Mashad! Mashad! Mashad! Mashad! Mashad! Mashad!"... The bus terminal is crowded and the bus companies staff go around screaming their destination... "Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! do you go to Isfahan?", "Natanz" our friend Amir politely replies. "Natanz?" repeats the man "Why do they want to go to Natanz?" He sounds surprised, almost scandalised. Because tourists go to Isfahan or Shiraz, maybe to Mashad... "There is nothing in Natanz! Isfahan is very beautiful!" he tells me in English. "Doust-e man dar Natanz ast" I answer in my basic Farsi "A friend of mine is in Natanz". He looks even more surprised! "Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan! Isfahan!"... 
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Service area
But we are going to Natanz, or better to Tar, a village in the rural area of Natanz, one hour from Isfahan (by car) but in a different age. 
Amir delivered us to the right platform, the bus driver took us on charge and an ancient woman in black chador already assured me that she's also going to Natanz, I can just sit there, it's the right place. No tourists on this bus, many women of different ages, some old men. Many boxes and bags, they are going home. We are a very interesting distraction and everybody want to talk with us, but they don't speak English and my Farsi is really poor. Nevertheless we talk in that mix of languages and gestures that travelers well know. 
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The desert!
It's about midday when we leave, our adoptive mother in Iran, Monir, provided us with some food but after one hour or so the bus stops by a service station to allow everybody to have lunch. I'm impressed! the area is big and new, there are many different restaurants and some shops, the bathroom and the prayer rooms (for men and women) where many travelers go taking a rest. In the big waiting room two neon signs say BURGERS and PIZZA, another one ICECREAM. 
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More desert
Back on the bus, flying on a well paved highway crossing the desert, we eat our food, then the driver helper passes with a teapot and a sugar box: "Chai anybody?", "Bale merci" (Yes, thank you). I love him! In Iran you are never left without chai. Never.
Outside, the desert. Burnt yellow and rocky, bald mountains in the distance, brown, gray and purple. I'm fascinated. I'd like to know the name of those mountains and I can't imagine that in few days I'll be very close to them. Still close it isn't enough! I'd like to come back to climb up there... 
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The oasis of Natanz
Kashan! It's a large city and I know it's beautiful, but this time we can't stop. We left the highway and here there is no traffic at all. Villages, small towns. We drive stright to the mountains.
Natanz! down the road, like a green mirage in the dusty nothing, no doubt it's an oasis, rich of gardens and orchades. We are almost the only travelers left on the bus and our friends are waiting for us.

TO BE CONTINUED

Have also a look to Part 1, Part 2,  Part 3 and Part 4


Procycling: Chris Froom wins La Vuelta: "...the toughest Grand Tour I’ve ever ridden"


Chris Froome: 
“It’s an amazing feeling. The team has just been incredible over the last few months. It’s meant so much to me, the way they have supported us. I owe a massive thank you to all my teammates.
I have to say that is probably the toughest Grand Tour I’ve ever ridden. There was something different happening every day. I’ve had good days and then I’ve been lying on the ground, bleeding, thinking my race might be over. It’s been a rollercoaster – absolutely relentless. It’s a relief now to finish and to be getting to Madrid. I think it probably is my greatest achievement, being the first person to win the Tour de France and then go on to win the Vuelta."

RESULTS source 
STAGES
Stage 1 (TTT) - Nimes › Nimes BMC Racing Team DENNIS Rohan
Stage 2 - Nimes › Gruissan LAMPAERT Yves LAMPAERT Yves
Stage 3 - Prades Conflent Canigo › Andorra la Vella NIBALI Vincenzo FROOME Christopher
Stage 4 - Escaldes-Engordany › Tarragona TRENTIN Matteo FROOME Christopher
Stage 5 - Benicàssim › Alcossebre LUTSENKO Alexey FROOME Christopher
Stage 6 - Vila-Real › Sagunt MARCZYNSKI Tomasz FROOME Christopher
Stage 7 - Llíria › Cuenca MOHORIC Matej FROOME Christopher
Stage 8 - Hellín › Xorret de Catí ALAPHILIPPE Julian FROOME Christopher
Stage 9 - Orihuela › Cumbre del Sol FROOME Christopher FROOME Christopher
Stage 10 - Caravaca Jubilar › Elpozo Alimentacion TRENTIN Matteo FROOME Christopher
Stage 11 - Lorca › Observatorio Astronómico de Calar Alto LÓPEZ Miguel Ángel FROOME Christopher
Stage 12 - Motril › Antequera Los Dólmenes MARCZYNSKI Tomasz FROOME Christopher
Stage 13 - Coín › Tomares TRENTIN Matteo FROOME Christopher
Stage 14 - Écija › Sierra de La Pandera MAJKA Rafał FROOME Christopher
Stage 15 - Alcala La Real › Sierra Nevada. Alto Hoya de la Mora LÓPEZ Miguel Ángel FROOME Christopher
Stage 16 (ITT) - Circuito de Navarra › Logroño FROOME Christopher FROOME Christopher
Stage 17 - Villadiego › Los Machucos. Monumento Vaca Pasiega DENIFL Stefan FROOME Christopher
Stage 18 - Suances › Santo Toribio de Liébana ARMÉE Sander FROOME Christopher
Stage 19 - Caso. Parque Natural de Redes › Gijon DE GENDT Thomas FROOME Christopher
Stage 20 - Corvera de Asturias › Alto de L'Angliru CONTADOR Alberto FROOME Christopher
Stage 21 - Arroyomolinos › Madrid TRENTIN Matteo FROOME Christopher

FINAL GC
1(1)FROOMEChristopherTeam Sky85040082:30:02
2(2)NIBALIVincenzoBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team6802902:15
3(3)ZAKARINIlnurTeam Katusha - Alpecin5752402:51
4(5)KELDERMANWilcoTeam Sunweb 4602203:15
5(4)CONTADORAlbertoTrek - Segafredo3802003:18
6(6)POELSWoutTeam Sky3201906:59
7(7)WOODSMichaelCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team2601808:27
8(8)LÓPEZMiguel ÁngelAstana Pro Team2201709:13
9(9)KRUIJSWIJKStevenTeam LottoNL-Jumbo18016011:18
10(10)VAN GARDERENTejayBMC Racing Team14015015:50
11(11)CHAVESJohan EstebanORICA-Scott12014016:46
12(12)MEINTJESLouisUAE Team Emirates10013017:41
13(13)ARUFabioAstana Pro Team8412021:41
14(14)ROCHENicolasBMC Racing Team6811022:00
15(15)PARDILLASergioCaja Rural - Seguros RGA6010022:59
16(16)NIEVEMikelTeam Sky569028:00
17(17)BARDETRomainAG2R La Mondiale528531:21
18(18)MORENODanielMovistar Team488042:16
19(19)ARMÉESanderLotto Soudal447559:01
20(20)ATAPUMAJohn DarwinUAE Team Emirates40701:02:58
21(21)HAIGJackORICA-Scott32651:04:48
22(22)ROJASJosé JoaquínMovistar Team32601:05:02
23(23)BILBAOPelloAstana Pro Team32551:06:22
24(25)MATÉLuis ÁngelCofidis, Solutions Crédits32501:13:27
25(24)PELLIZOTTIFrancoBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team32451:13:36
26(26)ROSONJaimeCaja Rural - Seguros RGA24401:17:12
27(27)MOSCONGianniTeam Sky24351:21:17
28(28)TOLHOEKAntwanTeam LottoNL-Jumbo24301:21:46
29(29)CLEMENTStefTeam LottoNL-Jumbo24251:26:13
30(30)MOHORICMatejUAE Team Emirates24201:31:24
31(31)STETINAPeterTrek - Segafredo20201:36:35
32(32)SANCHEZLuis LeonAstana Pro Team20201:36:50
33(33)PANTANOJarlinsonTrek - Segafredo20201:39:27
34(34)YATESAdamORICA-Scott20201:39:51
35(35)ANTONIgorDimension Data20201:42:33
36(36)CARAPAZRichardMovistar Team20201:43:59
37(37)AGUIRREHernanManzana Postobon20201:49:26
38(38)POLANCJanUAE Team Emirates20201:52:14
39(39)MAJKARafałBORA - hansgrohe20201:53:59
40(40)DE CLERCQBartLotto Soudal20201:54:19
41(41)BOUWMANKoenTeam LottoNL-Jumbo16201:55:00
42(43)JUNGELSBobQuick-Step Floors16201:58:17
43(42)COSTARuiUAE Team Emirates16201:58:46
44(44)YATESSimonORICA-Scott16202:02:43
45(45)REYESAldemarManzana Postobon16202:03:25
46(46)VISCONTIGiovanniBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team16202:11:10
47(47)OLIVEIRANelsonMovistar Team16202:16:03
48(49)SOLERMarcMovistar Team16202:19:27
49(50)SUAZABernardoManzana Postobon16202:23:21
50(51)VILELARicardoManzana Postobon16202:25:21
51(52)PEDREROAntonioMovistar Team12202:27:03
52(53)ROUXAnthonyFDJ12202:28:01
53(54)ROSADiegoTeam Sky12202:31:16
54(55)ROSSETTOStephaneCofidis, Solutions Crédits12202:33:53
55(56)MARCZYNSKITomaszLotto Soudal12202:34:33
56(59)FERRARIFabricioCaja Rural - Seguros RGA8202:39:52
57(58)DE GENDTThomasLotto Soudal8202:39:53
58(57)DENIFLStefanAqua Blue Sport8202:41:15
59(60)LUDVIGSSONTobiasFDJ8202:42:20
60(62)OLIVIERDaanTeam LottoNL-Jumbo8202:42:35
61(63)CHEVRIERClémentAG2R La Mondiale 202:42:41
62(61)DE TIERFlorisTeam LottoNL-Jumbo 202:44:41
63(64)MAISONJérémyFDJ 202:45:01
64(65)HERNÁNDEZJesúsTrek - Segafredo 202:45:39
65(67)BUCHMANNEmanuelBORA - hansgrohe 202:57:29
66(69)LOPEZDavidTeam Sky 202:58:17
67(70)POLJANSKIPawelBORA - hansgrohe 202:58:35
68(72)ALAPHILIPPEJulianQuick-Step Floors 202:59:11
69(71)BOLJetseManzana Postobon 202:59:17
70(66)DE MARCHIAlessandroBMC Racing Team 203:00:15
71(68)MASEnricQuick-Step Floors 203:02:34
72(73)LOSADAAlbertoTeam Katusha - Alpecin 203:06:59
73(74)VERONACarlosORICA-Scott 203:07:12
74(75)CLARKESimonCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 203:07:58
75(76)LUTSENKOAlexeyAstana Pro Team 203:08:08
76(77)SAEZHéctorCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 203:09:06
77(79)DE KORTKoenTrek - Segafredo 203:09:17
78(80)PUCCIOSalvatoreTeam Sky 203:09:44
79(78)AGNOLIValerioBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team 203:09:53
80(81)PEREZAnthonyCofidis, Solutions Crédits 203:13:46
81(82)NAVARRODanielCofidis, Solutions Crédits 203:17:49
82(83)JANSE VAN RENSBURGJacquesDimension Data 203:18:23
83(84)MASLluís GuillermoCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 203:18:29
84(85)TRENTINMatteoQuick-Step Floors 203:18:41
85(86)BERNARDJulienTrek - Segafredo 203:22:16
86(87)NIEMIECPrzemyslawUAE Team Emirates 203:25:48
87(88)OSORIOJuan FelipeManzana Postobon 203:27:41
88(89)BONNAFONDGuillaumeCofidis, Solutions Crédits 203:28:17
89(90)ARROYODavidCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 203:32:34
90(91)MORTONLachlanDimension Data 203:32:57
91(92)THEUNSEdwardTrek - Segafredo 203:33:03
92(93)VENTOSOFrancisco BMC Racing Team 203:33:37
93(94)BOHÓRQUEZHernandoManzana Postobon 203:33:54
94(95)CHERNETCKIISergeiAstana Pro Team 203:35:00
95(98)HANSENAdamLotto Soudal 203:37:11
96(96)KONRADPatrickBORA - hansgrohe 203:37:18
97(97)VILLELLADavideCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 203:37:57
98(99)HAGAChadTeam Sunweb  203:44:08
99(100)GOUGEARDAlexisAG2R La Mondiale 203:46:38
100(102)GARCIA CORTINAIvanBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team 203:47:27
101(101)DOMBROWSKIJoeCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 203:47:58
102(104)NIBALIAntonioBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team 203:50:02
103(105)COURTEILLEArnaudFDJ 203:50:13
104(103)CAPECCHIErosQuick-Step Floors 203:52:20
105(107)NOVAKDomenBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team 203:52:56
106(108)ANDERSENSøren KraghTeam Sunweb  203:52:58
107(106)JUUL-JENSENChristopherORICA-Scott 203:53:31
108(112)DUVALJulienAG2R La Mondiale 203:54:03
109(109)CARUSODamianoBMC Racing Team 203:54:23
110(111)LINDEMANBert-JanTeam LottoNL-Jumbo 203:55:09
111(110)SCHULTZNickCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 203:55:40
112(113)VLIEGENLoïcBMC Racing Team 203:56:01
113(114)CANTYBrendanCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 203:57:55
114(116)LOBATOJuan JoséTeam LottoNL-Jumbo 204:02:01
115(117)HOULEHugoAG2R La Mondiale 204:03:18
116(115)BOAROManueleBahrain Merida Pro Cycling Team 204:03:24
117(118)TURGISAnthonyCofidis, Solutions Crédits 204:06:21
118(119)HALLERMarcoTeam Katusha - Alpecin 204:06:31
119(120)IRIZARMarkelTrek - Segafredo 204:07:16
120(121)FRÖHLINGERJohannesTeam Sunweb  204:08:43
121(123)HAMILTONChrisTeam Sunweb  204:12:42
122(124)DE VREESELaurensAstana Pro Team 204:12:46
123(122)SKUJIŅŠTomsCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 204:13:16
124(125)KNEESChristianTeam Sky 204:13:46
125(127)HOELGAARDDanielFDJ 204:17:04
126(128)CORT NIELSENMagnus ORICA-Scott 204:17:37
127(130)RUBIODiegoCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 204:19:46
128(129)KREDERMichelAqua Blue Sport 204:21:18
129(126)DECLERCQTimQuick-Step Floors 204:21:20
130(131)TERPSTRANikiQuick-Step Floors 204:23:54
131(133)MODOLOSachaUAE Team Emirates 204:27:08
132(132)REISRafaelCaja Rural - Seguros RGA 204:27:14
133(135)VAN ASBROECKTomCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 204:29:59
134(134)BELKOVMaximTeam Katusha - Alpecin 204:30:01
135(136)ORJUELAFernandoManzana Postobon 204:31:44
136(137)LAMPAERTYvesQuick-Step Floors 204:32:02
137(138)MØRKØVMichaelTeam Katusha - Alpecin 204:33:01
138(139)CHRISTIANMarkAqua Blue Sport 204:36:26
139(141)HANSENLasse Norman Aqua Blue Sport 204:38:56
140(143)GATEAaronAqua Blue Sport 204:40:07
141(140)KONINGPeterAqua Blue Sport 204:41:00
142(142)PFINGSTENChristophBORA - hansgrohe 204:41:29
143(144)BEWLEYSamORICA-Scott 204:43:27
144(146)SCHILLINGERAndreasBORA - hansgrohe 204:44:03
145(145)STALNOVNikitaAstana Pro Team 204:44:07
146(147)VANBILSENKennethCofidis, Solutions Crédits 204:44:33
147(148)TAARAMÄEReinTeam Katusha - Alpecin 204:46:21
148(149)STANNARDIanTeam Sky 204:47:00
149(150)ZURLOFedericoUAE Team Emirates 204:47:04
150(151)MERTZRemyLotto Soudal 204:49:50
151(152)WALLAYSJelleLotto Soudal 204:53:38
152(153)MOLANOJuan SebastianManzana Postobon 204:54:27
153(154)SCULLYThomasCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 204:56:59
154(155)SCHWARZMANNMichaelBORA - hansgrohe 204:57:10
155(156)BLYTHEAdamAqua Blue Sport 204:58:28
156(158)MANZINLorrenzoFDJ 205:01:29
157(157)CLARKEWilliamCannondale-Drapac Pro Cycling Team 205:03:10
158(159)DUNNEConorAqua Blue Sport 205:16:23