8.12.2014

Passau-Wien By Bike - Part 8: Wien

Egon Schiele, Four Trees
Thunders first. Waiters were already busy preparing for the rain when we arrived in the small biergarten in a narrow street of Spittelberg. The sky turned black. Just the time to enjoy a tasty lunch, then the rain falls. Heavy and cold.  The Museumsquartier isn't far and there we go.
Egon Schiele, Lovers, Self-portraits with Wally
You can't see Wien in a day. You can decide what you'll see the next time. As for me, the Leopold Museum of contemporary art looks good.
I came for Klimt but I fell in love for Schiele: Wally's scandalous lover, portraitist of war prisoners and painter of anguished landscapes. A restless but sharp line dominates his works that all seem drawings, colours coming later. 
He died young, only 28, after his young pregnant wife Edith, both for the Spanish flu that in 1918 "killed 50 to 100 million of people, three to five percent of the world's population." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_flu). He well represents that world - and that Wien - wiped out by two consecutive carnages. The lost generation of Hemingway plunged from the Belle Epoque in a long meaningless nightmare. About Schiele, have a look here: 
http://www.leopoldmuseum.org/en/exhibitions/48/egon-schiele
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egon_Schiele
A complete different story this morning at Schönbrunn. Sober and elegant, surrounded by the beautiful Italian garden and by a large park, the Austrian royal palace was a country house in the begining, for hunting and recreation. Now it's inhabited by the sappy gost of Empress Sisi. Visitors get a little disappointed finding out that she was largely responsible for her unhappy marriage. Too young married to a very busy man taking seriously his public role, she lived an indipendent life, traveling a lot and writing some cutting memories.
I think of it while siting in front of a large window at th
Schönbrunn
e top floor of the Leopold Museum, face to Wien as it is now, Art Nouveau and contemporary buildings, a city looking forward. The old Wien is gone and I don't think many would like it back. There is a sperimental music concert in the Museumsquartier's yard, young people coming holding drinks. It stopped raining and we go taking a last tea by Cafe Neko, near Stephansplatz: the cats café. 
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn
Cafe Neko (Wien)
Cafe Neko (Wien)
Our night train leaves at 7pm and tomorrow at 6am we'll be back to Florence. The ride is over, the travel too. The story has just to be written and the photo are done.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I enjoyed reading about your trip.

Thanks for sharing.

B

Ilaria said...

Thank you :)