9.15.2016

Mountain: On Boukreev's Track 3

Lenin Peak
See also Part 1 and Part 2.

Anatoli Boukreev made ascents of 10 of the 14 peaks above 8,000 m (26,247 ft), without oxygen (Kangchenjunga excluded because he had to submit to his leader's decision) and many solo
Kangchenjunga
From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8000 m.
He  also tried unsuccessfully the Lhotse-Everest traverse and the Annapurna ascent in winter conditions.
Mount McKinley
He collected a series of speed records in ascending 8.000 and he's has been the first and only one to climb so many 8.000 in such a small time.
The implosion of the Soviet Union badly affected Bukreev's career. His achievements are the results of his incredible talent as a mountaineer but also of his ostinate fight to keep on doing what he was born to. 
K2
He  never stopped honouring the Soviet mountaineering that had allowed him - and many others - to live his dream with no consideration about social differences and money.

Anatoli Bukreev's Mountains

1987
Makalu
Lenin Peak (7,134 m) – First solo ascent
1989
April 15 Kangchenjunga (8,556 m) – new route with Second Soviet Himalaya Expedition
April 30 - May 2 Kangchenjunga – first traverse of the four 8,000 m summits of the massif
1990
April Mount McKinley – Cassin Ridge route
May Mount McKinley – West Rib route (solo)
Everest
1991
May 10 Dhaulagiri – new route on the west wall with First Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
October 7 Mount Everest – South Col route
1993
May 14 Mount McKinley (6,193 m)
July 30 K2 (8,611 m) Abruzzi route.
Dhaulagiri
1994
April 29 Makalu II (8,460 m)
May 15 Makalu (8,476 m)
1995
May 17 Mount Everest – North Ridge route
June 30 Peak Abai (4,010 m) – guide for President of Kazakhstan
October 8 Dhaulagiri (8,176 m) – fastest ascent record (17h 15m)
December 8 Manaslu (8,156 m) – with Second Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
1996
Makalu 
May 10 Mount Everest – South Col route
May 17 Lhotse – solo ascent, speed record
September 25 Cho Oyu (8,201 m) with Third Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
October 9 North summit of Shishapangma (8,008 m)
1997
April 24 Mount Everest (8,848 m)
May 23 Lhotse (8,501 m)
July 7 Broad Peak (8,047 m) – solo ascent
Lhotse 
July 14 Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) – solo ascent


Cho Oyu
Shishapangma 
Broad Peak

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