10.07.2016

Mountaineering: Mariano Galvan on the summit of Manaslu, in his own words

Mariano Galvan:
"After the frustration not to be able to get to the summit by the route Alberto Zerain and I had dramt, on 10/1 I descended, satisfied of my battle on the mountain. There I found that everybody was concerned about my short disappearance. But they should know I'm a registered trademark.
The next day my mate says he wants to have one more go on the Manslu with just one high camp, I look at him and can't do anything but wish him good luck, just 24 hours have passed and I can't ask him him to wait for me because weather could change and  of course I can't go up with him now.
He goes and I give him all I can to help. Me too... I don't want to give up on a second attemp... But I must wait a little. So I let him go with a warm good-bye and just 24 hours later I leave after him, I don't know where I'll get to but the thought I'm going to join him clams me down. I leave at 4.45 pm on 10/3 with a perfect weather, I pass camp 1 in a cloud but the temperature still is nice, in campo 2 I find an empty tent, get in my sleeping bag and rest one hour to get new strength.
From here the route gets harder, the tracks are covered in snow and confused, so I reach camp 3 and try to orient myself toward  camp 4, I can't find a trace of the fixed ropes, so I go straight  on a steep slope of snow. I feel fine but it seems that I'm not going forward. I eagerly wait for the daylight to get a clear view of where I am.
I finally reach camp 4 at 7 am, I see an abandoned tent and get in to find a relative shelter from the cold. I drop my backpack and go on with just a pole and a ice axe. From here the wind is very strong, I start feeling very tired and awfully sleepy. For a change I start hallucinating and when I rest I fall asleep, the summit seems never coming and I'm baffled not to see my mate, but I focus on reaching the summint and about noon I'm on the top. I have no watch because I lent it to Alberto. 
Totally exhausted I descend fo the same route and during a rest I see a person on a slope, because of the colour of his clothes he seems a Lama, I laugh of my hallucination: a person there, yeah yeah...! It turns out that the Lama is my mate  who's going up that same day.
So I keep descending and I reach the base camp at 8 pm the same day, exhausted I fall asleep but I'm worried because my cooker ask: "What about Alberto?" He thought he had descended while I was going up. Fortunately I talk with a group of Germans who know about him and a few hours later he arrives to the base camp and we have luch together. We celebrate the summit and we can't understand how we didn't meet, I laugh telling him I thought he was an hallucination. 
Thanks everybody for the good vibes and to keep on living so intensely."

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