On 9.21 they had set C2 at 6400m and were back in BC, ready for summit-push.
In the following days heavy snowfalls delayed the expedition. On 9.27 Zerain and Galvan climbed again to C2 just to find it was disapeared. At this point Zerain went back to BC.
On 9.28 the news came that Mariano Galvan was on summit-push, alone! While Zerain had decided to climb for the normal route, Galvan was trying on the new one.
Then nothing. Silence. And a tense waiting.
Alberto Zerain attacked the summit on 9.29. After a 2,700 m no stop climbing on the normal route, he reached C4. At this point he gave up on the summit and began a fast descent to communicate with the BC, awaiting news of Mariano Galvan. Today finally Galvan was seen: he was descending, near C3. He made it to BC, exhausted but safe and sound.
According to @2x14x8000 that's covering the expedition "he has spent three nights outdoors and another one in an empty tent with nothing to eat or to drink. Still, only pre-summit technical difficulties were able to convince the Argentine mountaineer to turn around. He's now resting at BC , satisfied, "very hungry and very thirsty."
"Here I am, tired but recovering, with a drink and a chat. I am happy I gave the route a try. I have missed 300 meters to complete it, but the most important thing is, as they say, to be here and able to tell it.
I parted from Alberto hoping to find the camp of another expedition and to be able to rest there. The next day I found a tent of a Japanese expedition, but empty. The food I had was algae and fish, but I could not cook or melt anything. So it was nearly four days with what I could melt with my body and not much else. They have been four days very, very hard, but taking advantage of the good training that you always have, I were able to battle and reach 300 meters before the top, but because of the technical difficulties it was impossible to climb it, at least for my level. So we had to 'pegar la retirada', as they say in my country.
I spent one night outdoors when I parted from Alberto, then one night in the tent and then two more nights outdoors. A few nights walking, others resting in a cave of ice that I had to dig. Fortunatley I had no problem with frostbite. But I was very hungry and very thirsty. I had to warm up a little finger when I arrived, but nothing more. When it was very, very cold I went out to climb to keep moving and to mitigate a bit the issue of the cold. I'm satisfied.
The truth is that it really annoyed me that we had lost all this equipment and all the work we had done with Alberto. It made me really angry to not be able to go ahead and I said "I'll see how far I can go."
The weather at the beginning played a trick on me, it was snowing almost a day and a half, that I could spend inside the tent of the Japanese expedition, and then the weather was pretty good, but imagine, a couple of bivouacs at more than 6,000 m is quite, quite cold.
I imagine that many people have been waiting for news, but this is mountaineering. All I can say is: don't worry, it seems I'm not wanted beyond eight thousand meters yet, so I keep enjoying the good company here.
Now it sounds weird, but that's what once was done: the snow caves, surviving... I miss it a little bit, so I put it into practice even though I know that I get many people nervous."