Mingma G Sherpa is one of my favourites mountaneers, one of the great Nepali guys working as guides and collecting stunning personal performances.
In spring he went atop both Dhaulagiri and Makalu in just few days.
"April 30 · Today at 12:20pm, we made DHAULAGIRI SUMMIT." he wrote on his fb page "we are back to camp 3 now. summitter namelist 1.mingma gyalje sherpa 2. ngatasi sherpa 3. lhakpa nuru sherpa 4. dong hong juan 5. liu yongzhong." He also posted this picture explaining: "This is Dhaulagiri (8167m-7th highest mountain) Summit on 30-04-2017. My 9th 8000m Peak and 8th 8000m Peak without oxygen. The summit of Dhaulagiri is Rocky with very few snow and a dead body.Next #Makalu-8463m starting tomorrow..."
The Makalu expedition was at first contested as other teams had said nobody could have reached the summit because in the last part there was no fixed rope. Still Migma adfirmed they went atop and it was finally confirmed.
"We reached Makalu fore summit at 9:03am on 11th May" he wrote "and I reached main summit at 10:18am. My partner Tashi and Jingxue(Chinese) reached at 10:48am after I put the final rope. Rope was not fix to main summit and we had to use our own 60m+20m main rope which we almost left at camp 3 after some people told it was fixed till Summit. Makalu wasn't easy mountain as I used to hear. I felt like it's completely nonsense to say Makalu is one of easy Peak among 8000m.
More pictures to come from my camera from the summit."
I love reading Migma G's reports. They are sharp and essential like the high altitude world he describes, but he always adds a striking dettail, something he knows because he has been there and you couldn't imagine from your couch - the dead body on Dhalagiri, the unespected hardness of Makalu. You feel he's working and stil, he's living his own adventure. Nepali mountaneers pasionately love their mountains, they can apreciate even better their beauty and harshness because they are familiar. That's why in their words you can feel this warm love and a sober reticence.