After Dhaulagiri (on 4/30) and Makalu (on 5/11), Mingma G is now in Pakistan for Nanga Parbat and K2.
Nanga Parbat is one of the most hard mountains to summit and a dangerous one. Mingma G. posted his report on his fb page . He's not sure he reached the summit and wants to have another go. A longer route suggested by the Pakistani mountaneer Ali Reza resulted in a doubtful outcome and a frostbitten foot finger.
"Nanga Parbat 2017
We started our summit climb from camp 3 at 10 pm on 10 June. We had Pakistani climber, Ali Reza who ascended Nanga Parbat in 2005 and I took him on G1 and G2 in 2016 and he was important part for our success. Because of that I blindly believed on him this time and followed him.
We were supposed to climb through left gulley from around 7400m but he led us through right gulley which made our climb harder and longer. Reaching at one ridge's summit, he mentioned we reached the summit. But that place didn't look like summit which I had figured out to be snow and two snow bars. We didn't agree with him and climbed 2 other Summit points but still we didn't find the place.
By then we already climbed for 20 hours and it was already getting dark and our members were running out of oxygen. We tried to take advantage of full moon time but we couldn't go further to another last summit point because of less oxygen and returned back.
Once Ali told that is Summit, some of our sherpa and member took pictures. I am still in dilemma about our summit. Coming back to Base camp, our cooking team told we went higher than Summit which we laughed at them. Since we are doing 14 peaks, we prefer to get same summit pictures as others have done so my Chinese members and I plan to go back and check it again in future.
But for my sherpa and Reza Shahlaee, it's a Summit because they have reached that point and they are not interested in 14 peaks. We found some of names in 8000ers list with same Summit picture. We were trying to check on internet for these two days and finally we are out with this report.
My Chinese team and I are doing 14 peaks so we don't want to be part of controversy later on so we will try it again but for rest of my team I congratulate them.
After climbing for 43 hours up and getting down to camp 3, I got these two stages of frostbite as blisters. It may take few more days to recover and I am already healing faster. It's my gift from Nanga Parbat.
Time to say Goodbye to Nanga and we say Hello to K2
Get well soon and good luck for K2!