7.28.2017

Mountaineering: Mingma G on K2


Image may contain: 5 people, people smiling, outdoorK2 is not the first high mountain in the world, it's the second one and probably the hardest. 
Mingma G had already been there but this year the weather conditions made it a very dangerous expedition. In add he was just back from Nanga Parbat with a frostbitten footfinger .
In Mingma team there were also two women who were going to make history: Kari Rostad as the first women from Norway to climb Broad Peak and Vanessa O'brien as the first woman from USA to climb K2. 
It was Mingma G. himself to introduce it all  on July 7:
Image may contain: text"K2 and Broad Peak Expedition 2017" he wrote on his fb page1.Mr. Mingma G Sherpa, climbed Everest-5, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu,Annapurna and Gasherbrum-I.
2.Mr. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, climbed Everest- 7 times, Lhotse, Manaslu, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II and Sishapangma.
3.Mr. Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Climbed Everest-7 times, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
4. Mr. Nima Tshering Sherpa, Climbed Everst-3times, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
5. Mr. Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, climbed Everest, Lhotse and Dhaulagiri
6. Mr Nima Nuru Sherpa, climbed Everest-9 times, Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Sishapangma
7. Mr. Mingma Nuru Sherpa Climbed, Everst-4 times, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
8. Mr. Ang Chhiring Sherpa Climbed, Everest-15times, K2-once, Cho Oyu-12, Manaslu-once and other Sishapangma-thrice.
9. Mr. Ngatashi Sherpa, Climbed Everest, K2, Kanchenjugna, Lhotse, Makalu, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu.
10. Mr. Phujung Lama is our Base camp cook.
11.Mr. Ali Reza, Climbed Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum-II. (If success-He will be among Pakistani who climbed all 5x8000m in Pakistan. Till now, only 3 have achieved it)
12. Mr. Fazal, climbed K2 and Gasherbrum-II. (If success-only Pakistani to climb K2 twice)
13. Mr Aminlluah, climbed K2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II. This year going to Broad Peak. (If success-He also will be among Pakistani who climbed all 5x8000m in Pakistan. Till now, only 3 have achieved it)
14. Mr Farman is our head cook
15. Mr Khancho is our assistant cook
16. Mr Mohammad is kitchen helper
17. Mr Sazzad is kitchen Helper
18. Mr Abbaz is also kitchen helper
19. Mr Zhang Liang form China climbed 12X8000m peaks.
20. Mr Liu Yong Zhong from China climbed 9X8000m peaks.
21. Ms Dong Hongjuan from China climbed 8X8000m peaks
22. Mr. Hari Mix from USA climbed Ama Dablam and tried Lhotse and Everest in 2013 and 2014.
23. Ms. Vanessa O'brien from USA completed 4X8000m peaks and this time here to become first American Woman on K2
24. Mr. Kumaran Rasappan from Singapore climbed Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam. He will be third person from Singapore to climb K2 if success.
25. John Snorri from Iceland climbed Lhotse and Ama Dablam and he is first person from Iceland on K2.
26. Ms Kari Rostad is from Norway and she is here to climb Broad Peak as first Norwegian.
27. Mr Kari Gudmundur from Iceland is here for filming K2 with John Snorri."
On June 28 Mingma G. wrote something in his style, sharp and direct:
"We finished our puja at K2 base Camp yesterday and today our sherpa fixed camp1.
Tomorrow I am going to camp1 and sleep there and we will fix further. We are planning to fix camp4 by July5 or 6.
Report from K2:
Abruzzi Route: 18 foreign climbers+13Nepalese+8 Pakistani. 
Sechen Route: 20 foreigners+3Nepalese sherpa+9Pakistani 
I got surprised to see climbers here without ropes. On Abruzzi, I am working in coordination with Furtenbach Adventure and I have got 6000m ropes. Furtenbach Adventure will fix ropes on Broad Peak and we will fix on K2. Later on we will use their rope on Broad Peak and they will use our ropes on K2. Here are other teams on Abruzzi. 
Karakoram Tour Pakistan: 2 Mexican+2Pakistani- no ropes
Summit Karakoram:1Mongolian+2 Pakistani-no ropes 
Karakoram Expedition: 1 Swedish+1 Pakistani- no ropes. 
If this is how climbers come on K2 then we can expect Year2008 again on K2."
These words rose a lively discussion. There was time for it because the weather was bad. On July 4 at 9:35 am he wrote: "We finished route to camp2 on K2 and we are waiting for next window to go camp 4. On return back, our chef made Hunza Bread" 
Image may contain: 2 people, people smiling, people standing and outdoorIn the next days the weather shortly improved allowing the mountaneers to reach the summit of the Broad Peak. "Congratulations on  Broad Peak. First summit in Karakoram this morning." he wrote on July 11 at 2:19pm "I am back to Base camp opening route to 7500m yesterday and on rest now because of my toe which almost got frostbite at Nanga Parbat. I started getting blisters on it again so I returned back for some recovery. Today my team made great effort and left rope near by camp4 as they got lost in clouds, too much wind and importantly not enough rope too.
We will wait for next weather window to make further progress. We are done with acclimatization. Only my Singaporean friend with Kami is staying one more night at camp 2, remaining all are back to Base Camp now."
But things didn't go the right way. On July 16 at 6:07am he wrote:
"Big Avalanche in Abruzzi. This morning at 8:12am, we saw big avalanche coming from Abruzzi route. We feel all camp 3 is swept away again. I am sure we have all our deposit near camp 4 because our sherpa team made it on ice cliff but it is likely sure that all the fixed ropes are washed away. Tomorrow our Sherpa team will go up to check. Every morning the weather is clear and it get clouded in evening. Weather forecast shows snow at 8000m every evening and very high wind at summit which delays our summit plan.
Waiting for good weather to come"
And again on July 17 at 6:06 pm:
"K2 is known for bad weather. This year too, K2 is same. She covers herself with cloud in day time and enjoys beautiful stars in night time. 
Legendary climber and expedition organizer, Russel Brice says it is equipment eating mountain and I do agree with him. Everyone knows 2015 and 2016, K2 was closed because equipment of all expeditions were lost from camp3. Himex team is covering their 2015's equipment on Cesen route. We are still unknown about our deposited equipment on Abruzzi route. This morning there was snowfall so we cancelled going to camp 2 and above.
Our weather reports say there is no chance to go up till July22. Time is running out and we are just hoping for good weather to come."
I love the fact he calls K2 'she'. Like a woman she covers herself with a veil of clouds and comes at night to enjoy the starred sky, when people sleep and can't admire her beauty. What a poet, Mingma G.! I'm becoming addicted to his writing style...
On July 21 at 6:32pm, another great line:
"Pub Quiz at K2 base camp today. It was fun and quality time with climbers on K2. We are ready Summit push now." ...and you can feel the excitement. 
On July 22 at 4:46 pm a perentory: "Ready for K2 summit push. Today first members of the team left from BC. They will join other team members tomorrow at camp 1." But again, it wasn't to be and after a long silence on July 25 at 6:53 am he wrote: "K2 is all about weather. We had 3 days bad weather though weather report showed good. Some team on k2 are closed already and some in my team are going down too. But remaining, We still want to check july 27." 
Finally  on July 27 the decision is taken: "We'll depart from our camp 4 at 11pm local time. We are now 14 climbers ready for summit push. More news will be given tomorrow after 10am. only my team is pushing for K2 summit." The night was long,  the silence heavy of worries and expectation. The tracker was showing the team's progress, steady but slow. The good weather window was very very short and there was a lot of fresh snow still unsettled. I was holding my breath and praying for them.
On July 28 morning - this morning - a new message from Mingma G.: "We 12 people to reach at the summit within 1hour." Glued to the screan now, the tracker was frustrating inesact... some strange moves made me think that maybe they renounced, or worse... but no: Vanessa O'brien was clearly reaching the top! and the message arrived, a little delayed... 
"Finally we are at the summit of Mt.K2
Mr. Mingma G sherpa
Mr. Dawa gyalje sherpa
Mr. Tsering pemba sherpa
Mr. Nima tshering sherpa
Mr. lakpa nuru sherpa
Mr. Nima nuru sherpa
Mr. Ang Tsering sherpa
Mr. Azong
Mr. Zhang liang
Miss. Jing xue
Mr.vanessa 
Mr.john snorri"
But the summit is just halfaway as Anatoli Boukreev used to say. The descent now.... I'm still praying.

MORE WHEN I'll KNOW MORE

UPDATE

Last night about midnight Mingma G. finally wrote:
"We are all safely descended to K2 Base Camp. Summit pictures will be posted tomorrow.
Thanks for following our K2 team."

THANKS GOD! and CONGRATS!

UPDATE
31 July at 12:16 pm 

Mingma G:
"K2 summit on July28, 2017

We are proud of our team because only we made it to top"

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